If you are interested in volunteering at the Chico Animal Shelter working with the dogs, it is important that you have the proper training. Dogs learn whether we think we are teaching them or not. Many dogs at the shelter have behavior problems. Quite often they were turned in (surrendered) to the shelter, or never reclaimed, because of behavior problems. While it is important to provide enrichment for the dogs while they are here at the shelter, it is also important to provide behavior modification. While we cannot solve all of a dog's behavior problems in the shelter (and may not actually see some of them while they are in the shelter), how we handle dogs at the shelter can either contribute to their problem behaviors (or even create bad behaviors), or it can create good behaviors and habits. A well behaved dog has a better chance of being adopted, and is less likely to be returned or re-homed by the new owner.

It is also important to have the proper training so that you and the dogs you handle remain safe. While we cannot prevent or anticipate every incident, knowing what to look for to determine if a dog is stressed, fearful or aggressive can help avert a problem before it starts.

The courses we have created discuss dog body language and our philosophy on dog training. Please go through the modules in order and take the quiz at the end of each module. You must pass each quiz in order to start working with the shelter dogs. Don't worry, you have several chances to take each quiz if you don't pass the first time.

Safety is Key!

The most important thing to remember while volunteering with dogs at the shelter is that these are not your dogs. As wonderful as these dogs are, few of them have experienced a normal home environment recently, had proper training, or experienced proper socialization while pupies. They need love and patience from compassionte volunteers like you.

The dog walking level system: Why?

All of our dogs have been designated as one of three levels. These levels represent different degrees of handling ability and experience required to work with them. These levels are fluid and you will likely see dogs move from one level to another.

• Level 1 dogs: These dogs are going to be generally easy to work on basic skills with. This is the starting point of all volunteers.
• Level 2 dogs: These dogs might not be as easy to work with or have very specific training plans. These dogs can be worked with by specific volunteers that have been trained to work with a specific dog.
• Level 3 dogs: These dogs are to be worked with by staff only. This is not always because of behavior issues. Sometimes dogs in this level could be on a specific hold, quarantine, etc.

Dog Profile Binders

There are three binders (for the three different levels) in the volunteer drawer that hold profiles for each dog in our program. In each profile you will find a picture, adoption/general/behavior information, and main training areas we are working on. This are constantly being updated by the staff based on our own interaction and feedback from volunteers. Before taking out a dog, you must read through the profile every time, even if you are familiar with this dog. This is incredibly crucial!

Each dog is placed in a level; these levels are extremely important so please make sure you are only taking dogs out that you have the training/clearance for.

Walk Sign Out/In Sheet

Behind each dog's profile you will see a walk sign out/in sheet. After reading through the dog's profile and before taking the dog out, you will need to sign that dog out and in when you return; even if it is just for a short walk. This helps us know where the dog is at any point. There is a comments section as well for you to write any notes about your walk. These can be positive notes like "walked well on leash!" or things that were maybe difficult to deal with like "kept jumping up on me." These notes help us out with adopting the dogs and finding them the perfect home as well as update their training plans while they are here.

R&R: Rest and Relaxation

On the Walk sign out/in sheet you will also see a section that says "R&R." This stands for "Rest and Relaxation." This is for when you interact with a dog in their kennel. This could be doing things like working on basic obedience, kennel enrichment, or simply sitting with the dog while doing a simple task like reading. Not all dogs do well with this activity. If they are not it will be noted on their profile.

Gear Up!

Along with proper volunteer attire (jeans/cargo pants that go all the way to your ankles, closed toed shoes, etc) you will need to grab a few more things. After you have signed in for your shift and grabbed your name tag you will equip yourself with the proper tools for working with the dogs:

• Poop bags (Found under the front desk or in the leash drawer)
• Slip lead (Found in the leash drawer or hanging up next to the bathroom)
• Filled treat bag (bags are found in the leash drawer and treats are under the front desk)
• Any other tools noted in the dog's profile
• Keys (checked out from a staff member)

If you cannot find one of these items or do not know their location, just ask any staff member or another volunteer.

Getting a Dog From the Kennel

After you have read through the dog's profile, signed them out for a walk, and equipped yourself with the proper tools follow these steps to get a dog out from a kennel:

1. Find the kennel.
2. Make sure the dog is calm before entering. Give treats/praise for sitting nicely.
3. When possible, open the gate in towards the kennel. Some of the chain link kennels will not allow you to so you will have to open the gate outwards.
4. Squeeze in to the kennel quickly. Dogs will sometimes try and squeeze out so go quickly and leave as little space as possible.
5. Secure the gate behind you.
6. Keep the dog calm and if they jump up on you turn away and get them to sit. Use treats if necessary.
7. With the slip lead, leash wrap bigger dogs and just have leash around the neck of smaller dogs.
8. Grip the leash with one hand through the loop and the other hand holding the leash down further so the dog doesn't have enough slack to not be beside you. ALWAYS KEEP TWO HANDS ON THE LEASH.
9. Open the gate and with the dog right next to you, walk to the wall in front of you, and exit from the door nearest you.

Out With The Dogs!

Walking: 20 to 30 minutes is generally the ideal amount ot time to walk each dog. While out on a walk, make sure to be implementing good leash skills. You can walk all along the property. You can also walk off the property and in the immediate area. If you would like to go out side of the area surrounding the shelter, you need to check in with a staff member. A good rule of thumb: If you are going somewhere that you cannot walk back to the shelter in 5 minutes, you need to check in with a staff member. That way we know where you and the dog are and have an idea of when you will be back.

Play Yards: We have two fenced in play yards for the dogs. These areas are good for pool time, working on basic training, fetch, etc. Before entering any play yard make sure you have reviewed the dogs profile and that the dog is allowed play yard time with volunteers. Sometimes dogs that have over stimmulation issues or just had surgery have play yard restrictions. While in the yard, if the dog goes to the bathroom, please pick up after them just like you would on a walk. Try to limit play yard time to about 20 minutes or so because we all share it and need to give others a chance to use it as well. While you are in the yard with the dog, you may not leave the dog in there alone. You also may not let others into the yard with you (unless it's a staff member). Members of the public that are interested in interacting with one of the dogs need to do so with a staff member unless otherwise directed.

Good Leash Walking Skills

Steps for rewarding good leash skills

1. Get some pea-sized pieces of treats to use to reward the dog and go to a familiar outdoor area like the play yards or around the premises.
2. With the dog at your side, you will feed them a treat reward right by your thigh. They will soon begin to stay near your side since that is where yummy treats appear!
3. Walk briskly and randomly around the area. Whenever the dog happens to choose to walk beside you, reward them with praise and a treat next to your thigh. If they continue walking next to you, reward them for every step you take together. As they get better at this you will not need to reward them as often.

What to do with dogs that pull

• When the dog is pulling on the leash follow these steps: Stop walking; when the dog starts paying attention to you, ask them to sit; reward with a treat. Repeat this whenever the dog pulls. It might seem somewhat tedious to do this every time but eventually the dog will learn to check in with you on walks and not pull as often.
• Walk in a completely new direction everytime they start to pull. This will get the dog to look to you for direction.
• Play the “follow me” game. Hold on to your leash and take several backward steps away from the dog. The backward movement is inviting, so the dog is likely to turn and follow you. Say “yes!” as the dog approaches you, then immediately reward them with a treat.Then back away several steps in another direction. Once again, says “yes!” as your dog approaches and reward him or her with a treat. Repeat this pattern eight to 12 times, until your dog is actively pursuing you when you move away.

Putting the Dog Back

• Locate the door nearest to the dog's kennel
• Open the door a crack to make sure the aisle is clear
• Enter the building with the dog on a short leash and go directly into the kennel with the dog, closing and latching the door behind you.
• Remove the leash
• Exit the kennel quickly and leave as little space as possible while slipping through the gate
• Lock and latch kennel

Enrichment

Shelter life is extremely stressful and any opportunity for the dogs to get outside is an enriching experience. throwing a ball for a dog and maing it sit each time to receive another throw not only exercises the body but also enriches the mind and teaches the dog apporpriate play behavior. You can also do small things like sitting in a chair with a dog while brushing their coat and rubbing ears. Sitting in the yard and ignoring the dog doesn't enrich the dog's experience or help with adoptability.

You can also use toys for enrichment in the kennel. We have a lot of toys like Kongs and Jolly Balls that can be set up to be extremely enriching for the dogs. You can do things like stuff toys inside of toys for them or fill them with a mixture of dry and wet food (not just treats because that will make them sick). If you have an spare freezer room at home, you can ask a staff member to take some of those toys home and make some good frozen enrichement toys!

Working on Kennel Presentation

Kennel presentation refers to the overall impression of a dog while in it's kennel.

Treating for Calm

Imagine you are an adopter wandering through our dog kennels. Some of the dogs are sitting quietly and looking at you soulfully, others are jumping, barking, lunging, and will not respond when you ask them to sit. Who are you going to be more interested in taking home?

It is typically the most fearful dogs that tend to appear aggressive in the kennel. Fearful dogs experience the flight-or-fight instinct. Remember, when they are in that tiny kennel, flight is not an option, so fight is the last resort. They aren't actually going to "fight", but they want you to think that they will by exhibiting aggressive behavior to get you to leave. Of couse, these are usually the dogs that do better in a warm, loving home environment. In other words, the dog simply has a lot of pent up energy and really wants to get out the kennel with you.

Treating for Calm is a gentle, fun, and effective way to teach dogs that good stuff is more likely to happen if they are quiet and calm in their kennels. It is easy to do, and uses the "Learn to Earn" training style.

• Have treats ready and in hand
• Approach the kennel and keep an eye on the dog's behavior as you come up to the kennel door
• If the dog is NOT barking or jumping: treat!
• Now wait and see if they sit without you saying anything
  • If they do: treat!
  • If they don't: ask them to sit; treat if they do!

If they do not respond to "sit", do not say "sit" again. We want them to learn that they need to sit after saying it once, not after 10 times. You can move on to the next dog and try again later. The dog also might not know the command in which case that should be worked on first outside of the kennel

Extra Reminders

• Please do not feed the dogs treats from home unless they are approved by staff.
• Pay attention to signs posted on the kennels and volunteer binder.
• Always read the dog's profile before taking it out EVERYTIME.
• Know your limitations and do not handle dogs that you are not 100% confident with.
• Do not lean over a dog. The dog may interpret this as dominating or threatening behavior.
• Do not interact with a dog while it is eating or drinking. Never try to take food, treats, or toys from a dog's mouth. If you want to get a toy or leash out of the dog's mouth, give it something else to put in their mouth, such as a treat. They will have to drop whatever it is to eat the treat.
• Always carry poop bags and clean up immediately after your dog. Also, please pick it up if you see it even if it is not from the dog you have out.
• Never allow a dog to jump on you or other people. If a dog is jumpy, turn your back on them and ignore them until they put all four paws on the ground
• Do not let dogs come face to face with each other.
• Never yell at a dog, scold a dog, hit, kick, or threaten to do any of these things when handling a Chico Animal Shelter (or any) dog. If you do, you will be immediately dismissed from the volunteer program.
• You are totally allowed to take pictures of our adoptable dogs and post them to social media! It all helps them get adopted.
• Try to spend at least half of your shift doing enrichment and kennel presentation. This is so important to work on the dogs adoptability. Working on these areas are just as important as walking them.

Good Job!

You've completed the Working with Dogs On-Site Course!