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Thimble Chimney
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Date of Inspection
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Client Name
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Client Information
Client Name
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Mike Hall, CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep #8326
Jeff Poirier, CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep #10008
Steven Reed, CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep #10492
Jacob Clark, CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep #9387
Jonathan White, CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep #10747
Michael Bedor, CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep #9514
Derek Riley CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep #11667
Leo Morgado CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep #11477
Nick Jones CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep #11550
Paul Bianco, CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep #7441
Alan Albandia, CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep #8729
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Mike Hall, CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep #8326
Jeff Poirier, CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep #10008
Steven Reed, CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep #10492
Jacob Clark, CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep #9387
Jonathan White, CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep #10747
Michael Bedor, CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep #9514
Derek Riley CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep #11667
Leo Morgado CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep #11477
Nick Jones CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep #11550
Paul Bianco, CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep #7441
Alan Albandia, CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep #8729
Technician Name
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Location of appliance?
Living room
Bedroom
Family room
Kitchen
Dining room
Library
Den
Sitting Room
Entryway
Basement
Other
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What is the fuel type of the appliance?
Wood
Oil
Pellet
Gas
Wood & oil combo unit
Coal
Other
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Your appliance should be inspected and serviced annually by a qualified technician. It is standard practice to leave a service tag/report for this service so it can be referred to. We strongly recommend having the appliance serviced annually to improve efficiency, durability and longevity of the appliance.
Does the Oil or Gas appliance have service tags that are up to date?
The appliance service tags were up-to-date.
NO TAGS FOUND - We did not find an up-to-date service tag/report for your appliance.
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Appliance Information
Brand of appliance
Model of appliance
Collar size
Nozzle size
Efficiency
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When evaluating the safety of a wood-burning appliance, it is compared to the appliance’s condition when new. When an appliance is damaged, (i.e., cracked or warped) it could potentially lead to unsafe conditions.
Is the appliance free of damages?
The appliance was found to be free of damages.
CRACKS FOUND ON INTERIOR OF APPLIANCE - The interior wall of the appliance was found to be cracked. This could lead to improper operation of the stove. If this damage is not addressed, eventually it could lead to damage that will make the stove unsafe for use.
WARPED INTERIOR OF APPLIANCE - The interior wall of the appliance was found to be warped. This could lead to improper operation of the stove. If this damage is not addressed, eventually it could lead to damage that will make the stove unsafe for use.
CRACKS IN EXTERIOR OF APPLIANCE - The exterior wall of the appliance was found to be cracked. Cracks in the exterior of the stove mean the stove can no longer contain the heat and products of combustion during operation. The appliance is unsafe for continued operation.
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Your appliance has been listed and tested to determine how close in proximity it can be to combustible material. The manufacturer will give a list of minimum clearances (usually located in the manual and on the back of the appliance) between your appliance and surrounding combustible material (i.e., wood, sheet rock).
Does the appliance have the correct clearances to combustibles?
The stove currently meets the recommended clearance to combustibles as stated by the manufacturer.
NO BACK WALL - Currently your appliance is too close to combustibles, as the clearance from the back wall is less than that listed on the back plate of your appliance. This is a potential hazard, as the appliance may overheat and possibly ignite surrounding combustibles.
NO RIGHT SIDE - Currently your appliance is too close to combustibles, as the clearance from the right side is less than that listed on the back plate of your appliance. This is a potential hazard, as the appliance may overheat and possibly ignite surrounding combustibles.
NO LEFT SIDE - Currently your appliance is too close to combustibles, as the clearance from the left side is less than that listed on the back plate of your appliance. This is a potential hazard, as the appliance may overheat and possibly ignite surrounding combustibles.
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A
hearth
is a noncombustible platform that your appliance sits on and should extend a certain distance to the front, sides, and back of the appliance. Hearth sizing and material requirements are different for every appliance.
Is the hearth appropriate and free of damage?
The current hearth meets the appliance manufacturer's specifications.
INCORRECT SIZE - The current size of your hearth is not large enough to meet the specifications of the appliance manufacturer. This increases the likelihood that combustible material within proximity of the hearth will ignite. In addition, stray embers from the fireplace could fall onto the combustible floor, possibly igniting it.
INCORRECT MATERIAL - The material that the hearth is constructed of does not meet the specifications of the appliance manufacturer. The hearth material is designed to keep heat from transferring to combustible material below.
DAMAGE TO HEARTH - The existing hearth was found damaged and/or cracked. These cracks compromise the hearth’s ability to protect combustible material below from overheating.
Other
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Current hearth dimensions:
6
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A
connector pipe
, commonly called "stove pipe", vents the gases from the appliance into the chimney. The connector pipe should be made of the correct material and gauge based on the type of appliance it is venting; have the correct "rise" and “run” to keep the gases moving in an upward flow; and be secured with 3 screws at every joint for proper stability.
Is the existing material appropriate (gauge, thickness) and configuration of the connector pipes properly installed? (lateral run, 3 screws at every joint, rise & slope)
The connector pipe was the proper material, was secured correctly, and had the proper rise and run.
IMPROPER MATERIAL - The connector pipe is not constructed of the proper material. This could lead to quick deterioration of the connector pipe, potentially leading to gases leaking into the home.
RUN TOO LONG - A long lateral run can have negative effects on draft, potentially leading to safety and performance issues. According to the National Fire Protection Agency, the lateral run of the connector pipe cannot be more than 50% of the chimney height for solid fuel appliances and 75% for liquid fuel appliances.
INCORRECT RISE - The connector pipe was not installed with the correct rise (upward slope). This impedes the draft of the chimney and can lead to issues with the appliance functioning properly.
NOT SECURED PROPERLY - The connector pipe was not secured with three (3) screws at every joint. This puts it at risk of shifting and possibly disconnecting during operation of the appliance.
RUSTED OR DETERIORATED - The existing connector pipes were found to be rusted and/or deteriorated. The connector pipes can no longer properly contain the by-products of combustion.
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The required clearances between your connector pipe and surrounding combustible material are determined by the National Fire Protection Agency.
Does the connector pipe have the proper clearance to combustibles?
The connector pipe had the proper clearance to combustible material.
TOO CLOSE TO CEILING - The connector pipe is currently too close to combustible material on the ceiling.
TOO CLOSE TO LEFT SIDE - The connector pipe is currently too close to combustible material on the left side.
TOO CLOSE TO RIGHT SIDE - The connector pipe is currently too close to combustible material on the right side.
TOO CLOSE TO BACK WALL - The connector pipe is currently too close to combustible material on the back wall.
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A
wall pass-through
is the area where your thimble passes through a combustible wall and enters the chimney. At this point, there is a greater potential of high heat that can potentially transfer through the masonry to surrounding combustible material. According to the National Fire Protection Agency, when a masonry wall pass-through is constructed, there must be a minimum of 12 inches of solid masonry on all sides of the masonry thimble in the wall.
Does the wall pass-through have the correct clearances to combustibles?
Upon inspection the wall pass-through was found to be installed correctly.
N/A - The thimble does not pass through a combustible wall.
INCORRECT WALL PASS-THROUGH - The wall pass-through did not have the required 12 inches of solid masonry around the entire thimble. This may be the most dangerous area of a chimney, as it is not visible, and the combustibles can heat up inside the wall without notice until a fire occurs.
UNKNOWN WITHOUT LEVEL III - Upon inspection it is possible that the thimble is passing through a combustible wall. However, without further investigation we are unable to make a determination. If the wall pass-through is not installed correctly it could lead to a dangerous situation where combustibles can heat up inside the wall without notice until a fire occurs.
INCORRECT MANUFACTURED PASS-THROUGH - During our inspection we found the existing manufactured wall pass-through was not installed properly. This may be the most dangerous area of a chimney, as it is not visible, and the combustibles can heat up inside the wall without notice until a fire occurs.
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What is the depth of the thimble?
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The intended purpose of a
chimney liner
or flue is twofold. The first is to vent and contain the products of combustion. The second is to reduce the heat transfer from smoke and gases to the chimney and adjacent combustible materials surrounding the chimney structure. A chimney liner should be of appropriate material, size, and shape for the appliance it is intended to vent. Your chimney liner material is:
What material is the chimney liner constructed of?
Clay Tile
Stainless Steel
Cast in Place
Unlined Flue
Other
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Unlined Flue Details
During the inspection we found that your chimney is unlined. This situation can cause deterioration of the mortar joints inside the chimney, which can compromise the ability of this chimney to protect the home structure from heat and flue gases/condensates produced when the appliance is in use.
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Stainless steel chimney liners are popular in modern construction and are often used to upgrade and repair existing chimneys. They come in different shapes and alloys.
Is the stainless steel chimney liner the correct material installed properly and free of visible defects? (shared flue, uninsulated, under-sized, over-sized, material, direct connect)
The stainless steel chimney liner is the correct material, installed properly, and free of visible defects.
NOT INSULATED - Your chimney liner does not have the proper insulation installed around it. Stainless steel liners for wood burning appliances are required to be insulated per National Fire Protection Agency Codes and Standards as well as the liner manufacturer’s instructions. This insulation stops heat from transferring from the liner to combustible material surrounding the chimney. Insulation also helps the performance of the appliance by keeping the flue gas temperatures higher, thereby preventing condensation of the flue gases, which contributes to increased buildup of creosote.
OVERSIZED - The stainless steel chimney liner was found to be too large for the appliance it vents. This means the appliance may suffer from draft or performance problems.
UNDERSIZED - The stainless steel chimney liner was found to be too small for the appliance it vents. This means the appliance may suffer from draft or performance problems.
INCORRECT MATERIAL - The incorrect material is being used to vent the appliance. It is important to use the correct material to vent the appliance to ensure premature breakdown does not occur. The material should also be rated for the level of heat to which it will be exposed.
WARPING - The stainless steel chimney liner venting your appliance was found to have warping. Continuing to operate your appliance vented through this flue may lead to smoke breaching into the chimney chase - overheating the chimney and potentially causing a fire - or smoke and noxious gases entering the home.
DISCONNECTED - The stainless steel chimney liner venting your appliance was found to be disconnected. Continuing to operate your appliance vented through this flue may lead to smoke breaching into the chimney chase - overheating the chimney and potentially causing a fire - or smoke and noxious gases entering the home.
DAMAGED - The stainless steel chimney liner venting your appliance was found to be damaged. Continuing to operate your appliance vented through this flue may lead to smoke breaching into the chimney chase - overheating the chimney and potentially causing a fire or smoke - and noxious gases entering the home.
RUSTED - The stainless steel chimney liner venting your appliance was found to be rusted. Continuing to operate your appliance vented through this flue may lead to smoke breaching into the chimney chase - overheating the chimney and potentially causing a fire - or smoke and noxious gases entering the home.
SNAKED LINER - The stainless steel chimney liner venting your appliance was improperly installed without a “tee body and snout” within the thimble area of the venting system. The existing liner was “snaked” into the thimble area and connected to the connector pipes of the appliance. This is now a weak point due to the drastic bend within the liner, which will deteriorate and burn out over time. Also, the snaked liner provides an area for creosote and debris to build up. Creosote and debris can build up in this area and potentially block the flue. Continuing to operate your appliance vented through this flue may lead to smoke breaching into the chimney chase - overheating the chimney and potentially causing a fire - or smoke and noxious gases entering the home.
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Clay flue liners are made from a vitreous clay material designed for this application. Looking at your chimney from outside, you may notice the reddish/orange or beige flue liner protruding out of the top of your chimney. The tiles used to construct the flue are usually constructed of 2-foot tall (tube-like) sections varying in size (depth and width), with the opening determined by the appliance they are to vent. These tiles are designed to rest on top of each other. A small band of refractory cement known as a "mortar joint" is used to bond the tiles together to create the flue liner as it ascends to the top of the chimney.
Is the Clay tile liner installed properly and free of visible defects (cracked tiles, missing mortar joints, spalling, glazed creosote)?
The clay tile liner is installed properly and free of visible defects.
VERTICAL CRACKING - We noticed vertical cracks in the chimney liner during our inspection. These cracks are caused by a temperature differentiation between the exterior surface of the liner and the interior. This is usually caused when the interior temperatures exceed the recommended levels for operation. Openings and/or voids in the interior of a chimney allow combustible gases and condensates to escape the liner instead of being vented correctly to the top of the chimney.
MISSING MORTAR JOINTS - During our inspection we noted that mortar joints between the flue tiles have eroded causing gaps or voids. A flue liner is designed to contain the products of combustion generated from the exhaust gases of the appliance. It appears that the wrong type of mortar was used in the process of constructing the flue. National building codes recommend the use of non-water-soluble refractory cement between flue tiles instead of regular mortar, which is used to build the chimney itself. The mortar joints are crucial to sealing a liner. Missing mortar joints means the flue liner can no longer adequately perform its function.
SPALLING LINER - During our inspection it was noted that the chimney liner has spalled. Spalling is caused over time by the mildly acidic nature of combustion gases and condensates that flow through your chimney flue. Left unchecked, the spalled liner may chip and flake with pieces collecting at the bottom of the chimney, potentially causing a blockage. This blockage may stop the flow of combustible gases from leaving the fireplace. This situation, in the short term, may cause failure of the appliance to operate properly or, in worst case scenarios, pollute the interior of the house with carbon monoxide or smoke.
GLAZED CREOSOTE - During our inspection, we found glazed creosote in the chimney flue. Glazed creosote is a thick, shiny, tar-like deposit that will accumulate inside the chimney when the combustion of wood is incomplete. Due to this thick creosote deposit, it is impossible for us to see the condition of a portion of your chimney flue. Glazed creosote is also flammable and, when ignition occurs, the resulting chimney fire can be extremely dangerous. If glazed creosote is present in your chimney system, we suggest adjusting your burning habits by burning shorter, hotter fires; opening your wood stove vents to allow more air; and burning dryer wood.
UNDERSIZED - The chimney liner was found to be too small for the appliance it vents. This means the fireplace may suffer from draft or performance problems.
OVERSIZED - The chimney flue was found to be too large for the appliance. This causes flue gases to slow down, allowing them to cool, which contributes to increased buildup of creosote. An oversized flue can also create draft-related issues.
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Cast-in-place chimney liners are installed by pumping a concrete-like material around a former, which is inserted down the full length of the chimney. After the lining sets, the former is removed, giving you a smooth, seamless, and extremely well-insulated chimney liner.
Is the Cast in Place Chimney liner installed properly and free of visible defects (springs exposed, missing pieces, glazed creosote)?
The cast-in-place chimney liner is installed properly and free of visible defects.
EXPOSED SPRINGS - During the installation process of a cast-in-place chimney liner a former or balloon is wrapped with springs. These springs keep the former centered in order to get the correct amount of insulating material around the former. If you can see the spring of a cast-in-place liner, the insulating material has worn away and the liner can no longer adequately perform its function.
VOIDS - During our inspection, we noted voids in the cast-in-place lining material. A flue liner is designed to contain the products of combustion generated from the exhaust gases of the appliance. Voids in the system mean the flue liner can no longer adequately perform its function.
GLAZED CREOSOTE - During our inspection, we found glazed creosote in the chimney flue. Glazed creosote is a thick, shiny, tar-like deposit that will accumulate inside the chimney when the combustion of wood is incomplete. Due to this thick creosote deposit, it is impossible for us to see the condition of a portion of your chimney flue. Glazed creosote is also flammable and, when ignition occurs, the resulting chimney fire can be extremely dangerous. If glazed creosote is present in your chimney system, we suggest adjusting your burning habits by burning shorter, hotter fires; opening your wood stove vents to allow more air; and burning dryer wood.
UNDERSIZED - The chimney liner was found to be too small for the fireplace it vents. This means the appliance may suffer from draft or performance problems.
OVERSIZED - The chimney flue was found to be too large for the appliance. This causes flue gases to slow down, allowing them to cool, which contributes to increased buildup of creosote. An oversized flue can also create draft-related issues.
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Clean-out doors
are small access doors usually located at the bottom of the chimney. Clean-out doors allow a place to remove debris that has fallen down the chimney.
Is the lower half of the chimney liner properly terminated? (clean-out or below-thimble) Does the clean out door have the proper clearance to combustibles.
The chimney liner terminated properly and, if necessary, the clean-out door was properly installed.
NOT ENOUGH CLEARANCE - According to the National Fire Protection Agency, the clean-out door must have an 18” clearance to combustibles. During a chimney fire, the clean-out door can become extremely hot, creating the potential for combustible material too close to the door igniting as well.
DAMAGED CLEAN-OUT DOOR - The clean-out door was found to be damaged and did not properly seal the flue. This could lead to decreased draft or combustion gases escaping the chimney.
FLUE TILES DID NOT EXTEND TO BOTTOM OF CHIMNEY - The clay tile liner did not extend all the way to the clean-out area of the chimney. According to the National Fire Protection Agency, the clay tile liner should extend to the bottom of the chimney flue.
SS TEE NO CAP - The stainless steel chimney liner installed in your flue did not have a bottom tee cap. According to the manufacturer's instructions, a tee cap should be used if the chimney liner does not extend to the bottom of the chimney.
NO CLEAN-OUT LARGE RESERVE - No clean-out door was installed for this chimney flue. The flue tiles extend below the thimble but this area is not accessible to remove debris from the chimney.
NO CLEAN-OUT NO RESERVE - The chimney did not extend below the bottom of the thimble. Debris will then fall down, build up and block the passageway of the gases out of the chimney. This is a potentially dangerous situation that could leak to smoke or gases entering the home.
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A
thimble
is a hole that was built into the chimney where another appliance is or was connected. When a thimble is not used anymore, it should be sealed with masonry.
Are unused openings into flue properly sealed?
No thimbles were found, or unused openings into flue are properly sealed.
OPEN THIMBLE - During the inspection we found a thimble that was never sealed (bricked in). An unsealed thimble may allow dilution air to enter the chimney, reducing its ability to draft properly. Also, products of combustion may gain access to areas where they may cause combustible structures around the chimney to ignite.
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When constructing a chimney with a 4-inch (thickness) of masonry and a tile liner, 2 inches of air space should be allowed between the interior chimney and combustible material surrounding it (1-inch allowance for an exterior chimney).
The framing around the chimney had the proper clearance and fire stops were present.
NOT ENOUGH CLEARANCE TO FRAMING - Your chimney did not have the required (2” clearance interior, 1” clearance exterior) to combustible material. There is potential for products of combustion (heat, gases) to be transferred to the bricks. Proper air space around the chimney ensures that the heat /gases will be diffused before coming into contact with combustible material, preventing possible overheating and greatly decreasing the chance of ignition.
FIRE STOPPING NOT PRESENT - Fire stopping is a non-combustible seal around the chimney at each floor level. Fire stopping prevents a fire in one part of the house from easily traveling to the next. Your chimney was missing the proper fire stopping, which could lead to the rapid spread of fire from one level of the house to another.
COULD NOT INSPECT - The areas where clearance to combustible framing and fire stopping are present were not inspected during this visit.
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Were details on the chimney above the roof explained in another report?
YES
NO
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Material used above the roof-line:
Brick
Concrete blocks
Stucco (block under)
Masonry chased with wood
Stucco/stone combo
Stone (no inner blocks)
Concrete blocks faced with stone
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During the inspection was the roof accessed?
YES
NO
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Condition of masonry above the roof line:
The masonry above the roof line was in good condition.
SPALLING - The masonry above the roof line has begun to chip off and crumble. This is known as spalling. Spalled masonry is caused when moisture penetrates the masonry and freezes.
CRACKED AND MISSING MORTAR JOINTS - Moisture has penetrated the mortar joints causing them to erode. The damaged mortar joints create a passageway for water to continuously absorb into the masonry.
MISSING MASONRY - Pieces of the masonry have become dislodged and are now missing from the chimney exterior. These voids will allow moisture to penetrate the chimney and may cause leaking issues within the building.
CRACKED BRICKS - Moisture has penetrated the bricks and then frozen, causing them to crack. This crack allows a passageway for water to enter the chimney structure.
MOSS - Moss has been found growing on the exterior of your chimney. Moss attracts and holds moisture and will eventually erode mortar joints of the chimney contributing to the deterioration of the chimney structure.
EFFLORESCENCE - The visible white staining on the exterior of your chimney is called efflorescence. This is caused by moisture penetrating the exterior of the chimney or by condensation that originates from the interior of the chimney due to warm room air or to a high-efficiency gas or oil appliance venting into a cold chimney. This could lead to further deterioration of the masonry and chimney structure.
CONCERN OBSERVED FROM GROUND - The concern(s) above were documented from the ground.
UNABLE TO DETERMINE - During this visit the roof was not accessed. We are unable to speak to the condition of the masonry.
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The purpose of the
chimney crown
(the area surrounding the opening of the chimney at the top) is to prevent moisture or rain from entering the chimney. Left unchecked, this will allow water to enter the chimney, which causes staining and/or deterioration to the chimney.
Is the Wash/Crown properly installed and free of damage?
The wash/crown was properly installed and free of damage.
NO EXPANSION JOINT - An expansion joint was not installed between the wash/crown and top flue tile, causing the wash/crown to crack. An expansion joint should be installed between the top flue tile and the wash/crown to allow the expansion and contraction of the tile liner. The hot gases that vent up the flue system will cause the flue tiles to expand. If the wash/crown is constructed right up to the top flue tile, as the top flue tile expands, it cannot move freely, and the crown itself will crack.
CRACKS - Cracks were found within the wash/crown of your chimney. This will allow moisture to enter the chimney structure causing further deterioration of the masonry.
DETERIORATED - The wash/crown of your chimney is deteriorated. The cause may be the use of the wrong material during construction of the wash/crown or simply poor construction.
MISSING CROWN - The wash/crown on top of the chimney was never installed; therefore, when water hits the top of the chimney, it penetrates directly into the masonry. This will cause further deterioration of the chimney and possible leaking issues inside the home.
WOOD FOUND - When your chimney was built, the mason laid a piece of wood down on top of the chimney to support the crown. Obviously, wood inside a chimney is never a good idea, as the wood can combust. It can also sag and hold moisture, leading to further deterioration of the chimney.
CONCERN OBSERVED FROM GROUND - The concern(s) above were documented from the ground.
UNABLE TO DETERMINE - During this visit the roof was not accessed. We are unable to speak to the condition of the chimney crown.
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Photo of the chimney crown/wash concerns:
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46
A
Wythe wall
is a 4-inch thick brick wall inside the chimney that separates one flue from another. This wall prevents damage from spreading from one flue to another during a chimney fire, lightning strike, or when one flue is being relined.
Is there room to potentially have a Wythe wall between flues (min. 4 inches)?
This chimney is only a single flue chimney so a Wythe wall would not have been built.
NO WYTHE WALL - There was no Wythe wall built between the flues during construction of the chimney. This was determined because there is less than 4" between flues.
POTENTIAL FOR WYTHE WALL - There is potential space for a Wythe wall, with 4" or more between the flues. However, we are unable to determine if a divider wall is constructed as we are unable to access the inside of the chimney.
UNABLE TO DETERMINE - During this visit the roof was not accessed. We are unable to speak to the condition of the Wythe wall.
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47
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Are there additional flues in the chimney/chase?
SINGLE FLUE CHIMNEY - There are no additional flues in this chimney/chase.
MULTIPLE FLUES - This chimney/chase contains additional flues.
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Please list the additional flues in the chimney/chase:
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Chimney flashing
is a term commonly used to describe pieces of sheet metal or like material used to prevent water from entering the house at intersections such as where a roof meets a wall or a chimney.
Was the flashing, counter flashing and cricket installed properly and free of damages?
The flashing, counter flashing, and cricket were installed properly and free of damages.
COUNTER FLASHING DAMAGED - The counter flashing was damaged. This could lead to water entering the structure of the building.
COUNTER FLASHING MISSING - The counter flashing was found to be missing. This could lead to water entering the structure of the building.
COUNTER FLASHING TOO HIGH - The counter flashing should overlap the step flashing all the way down to the roof. Your counter flashing was cut too short, leaving some unprotected areas of step flashing, which could lead to leaks.
METAL ROOF NO FLASHING - When installing a metal roof the pans/ roofing should be bent up around the chimney to create flashing. This was not done during the roof installation. Now silicone or other sealants must be relied upon to stop water from entering the house structure.
SHINGLE ROOF NO FLASHING - When installing a shingle roof step flashing should be installed between shingles. This was not done during the roof installation. Now silicone or other sealants must be relied upon to stop water from entering the house structure.
CRICKET NOT WIDE ENOUGH - A cricket or saddle is a ridge structure designed to divert water on a roof around the high side of a chimney. Your cricket did not extend far enough to protect the chimney from water and ice.
CRICKET NOT PRESENT - A cricket or saddle is a ridge structure designed to divert water on a roof around the high side of a chimney. No cricket was installed during construction of your chimney, leaving the chimney susceptible to damage from water and ice.
CRICKET DAMAGED - A cricket or saddle is a ridge structure designed to divert water on a roof around the high side of a chimney. The cricket behind the chimney was damaged, leaving the chimney susceptible to damage from water and ice.
CONCERN OBSERVED FROM GROUND - The concern(s) above were documented from the ground.
UNABLE TO DETERMINE - During this visit the roof was not accessed. We are unable to speak to the condition of the chimney flashing.
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According to NFPA211 Codes and Standards, the chimney must meet the
3’-2’-10’ rule.
This means that the chimney should extend a minimum of 3 feet out of the roof or 2 feet higher than anything within 10 feet (i.e., parapet walls, dormers, or other sections of roof).
Does the chimney meet proper height requirements (3’-2’-10’ rule)?
The chimney meets the proper height requirements (3'-2'-10' rule).
IMPROPER HEIGHT - The chimney does not meet the minimum required height. This could cause performance or draft problems within the system.
IMPROPER HEIGHT DRAFT ISSUES - The chimney does not meet the minimum required height. Based on other parts of the inspection, this is leading to draft and performance issues.
IMPROPER HEIGHT NO DRAFT ISSUES FOUND - The chimney does not meet the minimum required height. Based on other parts of the inspection, no other signs of draft or performance issues were found.
CONCERN OBSERVED FROM GROUND - The concern(s) above were documented from the ground.
UNABLE TO DETERMINE - During this visit the roof was not accessed. We are unable to speak to the chimney height.
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Please list (in inches) approximately how short of code height the chimney is:
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A chimney cap is designed to keep moisture (i.e., water and snow) and animals out of the chimney system. In some cases it is an integral part of the chimney system and can affect draft.
Is the chimney cap present and free of damages? (missing, cracked, deteriorated, rusted, warped, discoloration)
The chimney cap is present and free of damage.
MISSING RAIN CAP - No rain cap was present on your chimney flue. This could lead to moisture or animals entering the chimney system.
TOO CLOSE TO TOP OF FLUE - Rain cap lids should be a minimum of 8” above the termination of the flue. This allows for the proper drafting of the appliance. The current rain cap is too close in proximity to the top of the flue which can cause drafting inefficiency and performance problems with the appliance.
DAMAGED MASONRY CAP - The masonry chimney cap was found to be damaged. Over time, the damaged chimney cap could deteriorate to a point where it could fall, causing damage to the building or persons.
DETERIORATED MASONRY CAP - The masonry chimney cap was found to be deteriorated. Over time, the damaged chimney cap could deteriorate to a point where it could fall, causing damage to the building or persons.
RUSTED METAL CAP - The chimney cap covering this flue was rusted. If a chimney cap is rusted, it has weakened structurally and should be replaced.
WARPED OR DISCOLORED RAIN CAP "CHIMNEY FIRE" - Evidence of a high heat event was present at the top of the chimney, as seen in the warped / discolored metal cap covering the flue.
CONCERN OBSERVED FROM GROUND - The concern(s) above were documented from the ground.
UNABLE TO DETERMINE - During this visit the roof was not accessed. We are unable to speak to the condition of the chimney cap.
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Winters in the northeast can create large ice dams and snow loads. A chimney located far down from the ridge of the roof can be susceptible to damage from snow and ice.
Is the chimney located in an area that is NOT susceptible to snow and ice damage?
The chimney is located in an area that is not susceptible to snow and ice damage.
ICE DAMAGE POSSIBLE - Based on the size and location of your chimney, it is susceptible to ice and snow damage.
ICE DAMAGE UNLIKELY - Based on the size and location of your chimney, it is susceptible to ice and snow damage; however, it is unlikely.
CONCERN OBSERVED FROM GROUND - The concern(s) above were documented from the ground.
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Were accurate measurements of the flue and chimney taken above the roof line?
YES
NO
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Rooftop measurements
Chimney height above roof line (higher side)
Brick/Block Measurements
Chimney ID
Chimney OD
Crown Measurements
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Flue measurements
Flue ID
Flue OD
Flue Length
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A single sudden occurrence event (i.e. chimney fire, lightning strike, thermal expansion, or physical contact from a falling object) refers to damage found not consistent with deterioration or wear and tear over time.
Is the chimney and flue system free of damages due to a single sudden occurrence event?
The chimney and flue system are free of damage due to a single sudden occurrence event.
CRACKED FLUE TILES - Upon inspection of the chimney I found that the terracotta tile liner venting this appliance has vertical cracks. We believe these cracks were caused by a single sudden occurrence event.
DAMAGED MASONRY - Upon inspection of the masonry chimney I found the structural stability has been compromised and damaged. We believe this damage was caused by a single sudden occurrence and not deterioration over time.
WARPED STAINLESS STEEL CHIMNEY LINER -Upon inspection of the chimney I found the existing stainless steel liner venting this appliance was warped. We believe this damage was a single sudden occurrence event.
BURNT CREOSOTE - Upon inspection of the flue system I found burnt "puffed-up" creosote. Creosote expands when ignited and is evidence of a chimney fire.
DISCOLORATION OF METAL COMPONENTS - Upon inspection, I found the metal components within the flue system to be discolored. This is evidence of a single sudden occurrence event.
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64
This inspection report is designed to inform you about your chimney system so that you can make educated decisions on continued usage, possible upcoming repairs, and the longevity of the system. Please understand that chimney construction in Vermont and New Hampshire goes unregulated, and in the majority of chimneys that we inspect we find some kind of code violation or issue with the construction/installation. We are left on a daily basis to make a judgment call on the safety of these systems and therefore your homes. We have decided to point out all safety concerns so that you can be made aware. However, some code violations and safety issues may be more serious than others. We encourage you to give us a call to have a discussion about the issues found in this inspection report.
Is the system suitable for continued use?
Currently the system is suitable for continued use.
Currently the system is NOT suitable for continued use.
MORE INFO NEEDED - At this time I am unsure if the system is suitable for continued use. I will bring my findings back to the office and do more research in order to determine the suitability of the system.
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